Nebbiolo is one of my favorite varieties in the world, and Barolo does it the best. However, it’s not cheap, so I’m always on the lookout for cheaper Nebbiolo alternatives or cheaper varieties that are similar. Many wine experts have compared Greek Xinomavro to Nebbiolo. Let’s see if this comparison is apt.
Xinomavro
Xinomavro is considered by most to be Greece’s top red variety. It’s planted all across northern Greece. Sometimes it’s blended with international varieties. However, Naoussa and Nemea are where the best varietal Xinomavro is produced.
The main reason why wine lovers compare it to Nebbiolo is that it’s typically a tannic and high acid wine with great ageability. Xinomavro actually means black and sour, which shows how it is similar to and different from Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo is definitely high acid, but it’s not the darkest colored wine. In terms of vinification, like with Nebbiolo, more classic versions are aged with neutral wood although some do use new oak.
I found a Xinomavro and a Barolo to compare. I tried not to get too expensive of a Barolo. Depending on your market, this Barolo can be anywhere from $ 5-25 more expensive than the Xinomavro, so I was hoping to find two bargains for similar quality and style of wines. However, the average Xinomavro will be a lot cheaper than the average priced Barolo in general.
Tasting Notes
2016 Paolo Scavino Barolo
Blend of fruit from 5 vineyard sites: 3 in Castiglione Falletto, Codara, Vignolo and Mariondino, and 2 in Barolo, Via Nuova and Vignane. Fermented in stainless steel, the wine is then aged in French-oak barriques for 12 months followed by another 12 months in large oak casks. This is the ultimate gateway wine to Piedmont Nebbiolo. It has some of the floral, red fruit and lighter feel characteristics of Nebbiolo with less acidity and tannin of more classic Barolo with a bit of oak spice and roundness. Still mostly about fruit and floral notes. Easy to drink with or without food. It’s a bridge between Bordeaux blend lovers and Italian Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. Personally, I’d like more acidity and savory notes in my Nebbiolo, but everything else is so well done. 92
2018 Diamantis Winery Magoutes Xinomavro Macedonia
Grown 3,000 feet above sea level from old and young vines in Siatista within Greek Macedonia. Fermented in stainless steel and then age in 500-liter used oak barrels for 1–2 years. Red fruit, high acid, floral with a touch of spice and balsamic, so I can see the grape’s comparisons to Italian Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. It has more color though. There’s a similar light feel but with tannic and high acid structure of classic Barolo but not quite the exact rose, white pepper and tar notes. However, it doesn’t have the price of Piedmont Nebbiolo or better Sangiovese. It’s still young and could improve with age. 90+
Conclusion
Perhaps this wasn’t the best comparison since the Paolo Scavino is a more modern Barolo, which was already at its peak from the get go. In contrast, the Xinomavro was more like classic Barolo in that the structure kept it quite young and tense without much presence of oak influence. At the same time, this Xinomavro is darker in profile and doesn’t have the exact same classic notes of Barolo or Barbaresco. Therefore, I’d like to think I wouldn’t confuse the grapes in a blind tasting but certain styles and terroirs might make it more difficult. For the price, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy either of these two specific wines. The Diamantis I would lay down a few more years while the Paolo Scavino would be wine to open now and introduce to someone new to Nebbiolo.
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