Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Watch Review
Now celebrating its 30th anniversary, Roger Dubuis has released the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a watch inspired by the past that’s been crafted for today and beyond. Endowed with two retrograde hands, each moving above an arcing track to indicate the prevailing day and date, this latest expression of ‘Hyper Horology’ prompted Angus Davies, the fiftysomething Lancastrian, to reflect on life.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar – introduction
Life is often described as a journey. Sometimes our path may be smooth, but occasionally it can be bumpy. We may walk beneath clear blue skies, but inclement weather can also rear its ugly head, dampening our mood. Along the way, there are a number of milestones, comprising significant moments punctuating life. For instance, ‘hitting fifty’ is a momentous milestone for many people that often leads to a period of reflection; looking back at the route taken to date and questioning the many choices made along the way. After thinking about these moments, many may begin to wonder what might have been if they’d taken the left path, rather than the right. These are certainly my thoughts, a man who turned 50 several years ago.
Moreover, I often think how wonderful it would be if one could step back in time with the benefit of wisdom and commence life’s journey anew. Perhaps it’s for this reason that I’m especially drawn to this latest expression of ‘Hyper Horology’ from Roger Dubuis.
Unveiled a few weeks ago at Watches & Wonders, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, as its name implies, is endowed with two retrograde indications, displaying the prevailing day and date. Each function employs a lone hand that travels along an arcing path. Eventually, each hand reaches its final stop (‘Su’ or ’31’), the day ends, the hand returns to its point of origin and the journey begins afresh. It’s a steely-hearted soul who does not smile at this model’s balletic performance. However, as I hope to demonstrate, there is more to this watch than its choreographed dance routine. Allow me to elaborate.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar dial
Fulsome, openworked hour and minute hands, formed of pink gold, converse with golden hour markers, positioned on a suspended flange. The flange is snailed on its upper surface, while the sloping edge, nearing the centre of the dial, is smooth. The hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers, feature Super-LumiNova, aiding readability in dim light conditions.
The retrograde day display is located between 8 and 10 o’clock. Every Monday, its openworked hand commences a journey, travelling south along a golden, curving track. Eventually it reaches ‘SU’, where it resides for 24 hours before jumping back to ‘MO’. The track is brushed, save for its edges which are polished.
Located opposite the day display sits a similarly styled hand and track arrangement indicating the date, imbuing the dial with a symmetrical mien. In this instance, the openworked hand begins its tour at ‘1’ and travels north, eventually reaching its intended destination, ’31’. Once again, on the stroke of midnight, the openworked hand flicks back to ‘1’ with notable alacrity.
Although both hands move at different rates and travel in opposite directions, they deliver the same combination of readability and dynamic flair. Moreover, these indications are beautifully executed. View the bridges beneath each hand, they are enriched with a brushed finish, while the screws and the jewels sit within polished sinks. Even the cheese-head screws retaining each bridge are endowed with a chamfered rim and polished slot. Both snail-shaped cams are clearly visible, one positioned beneath each bridge, each dedicated to its own unique retrograde dance sequence.
The central area of the dial is silver-plated and sits above two curved sections of mother-of-pearl, positioned at 6 o’clock and noon. Edged in gold, this central area plays host to a snailed small seconds display and a cartouche bearing the esteemed Poinçon de Genève (see later).
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar case
Brand devotees will immediately recognise the familiar fluted bezel design synonymous with the Excalibur collection. Likewise, the triple-lug arrangement, positioned above and below the dial, is another brand signature. However, unlike most Roger Dubuis references, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is modestly sized, measuring just 40 mm in diameter. Furthermore, the case, compared with many of its siblings, is slimmer, measuring 11.25 mm, allowing it to easily slip beneath the cuff.
When creating the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, the Swiss marque, located on the outskirts of Geneva, has looked to the past. Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995 and soon became known for creating biretrograde displays. Moreover, his watches, sensitive to the prevailing tastes of the time, tended to be smaller. When developing this watch, the Manufacture has clearly been inspired by the aforementioned period in its history, yet has created a new model that is perfectly in tune with present-day tastes.
Survey the case and you will repeatedly see subtle plays with texture, finishes and volumes. For example, the highly polished upper bezel surface is punctuated with small fluted sections that are recessed and adorned with a richly textured finish. Appraise the case between forefinger and thumb and you will notice that most surfaces are brushed but also feature gleaming bevelled edges, granting contrast.
A crown guard graces the right flank of the case. This feature is usually the preserve of sports watches, but it looks quite at home on this relatively formal timepiece. To the rear of the watch, the now ubiquitous exhibition caseback affords sight of an extraordinary movement, the Calibre RD840. Take a look at the four screws retaining the caseback. These are not the usual simple flat head items, but intricately formed screws with beautifully polished edges.
As I previously mentioned, this watch adopts the brand’s distinctive triple-lug design, joining the strap to the case in steadfast union. This detail imbues the watch with a unique look that immediately identifies the model as a product of the prestigious Swiss marque. Such incredible attention to detail sets this brand apart from the majority of its contemporaries. Indeed, just look at the brown calf leather strap that unites the watch to its owner’s wrist. It’s not flat, instead it has pronounced edges and exhibits a notable depth. When affixed to the wrist, it feels sumptuous and confers impressive wearer comfort.
Roger Dubuis Calibre RD840
Roger Dubuis crafts watches of the highest order, many of which bear the Poinçon de Genève. Watch companies that assemble, case and adjust their timepieces within the canton of Geneva can punch their products with the ‘Hallmark of Geneva’ provided they meet its stringent requirements. The certification process involves supplying detailed dossiers covering each aspect of the watch, including materials, construction, assembly, regulation, etc. Upholding the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève, TimeLab, an independent auditor, visits the Manufacture on a monthly basis, ensuring that everything meets said requirements (see my behind-the-scenes look at the Manufacture).
The brand states that the Calibre RD840 features ’14 distinct finishes’, all of which have been performed in-house and meet the Poinçon de Genève certification requirements, a clear indication that the movement is crafted to an exalted standard. The openworked oscillating mass bears the hallmark of the Poinçon de Genève. Beneath the oscillating mass, the bridges are adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, the screws and pegs are mirror-polished, the bridges are hand-bevelled, the mainplate is embellished with perlage, etc, etc.
Comprising a total of 240 components, the Calibre RD840 will run autonomously for 60 hours. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz).
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar – closing remarks
In just 30 short years, Roger Dubuis has produced an impressive body of work. The design of some references will inevitably polarise opinions. Personally, I’m a fan of the brand’s more avant-garde creations, appreciating the company’s use of cutting-edge materials, its creation of skeletonised calibres and its near-obsessive attention to finishing.
However, while the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde shares some of the brand’s distinctive design codes, it looks decidedly different from its siblings. I suspect this may attract a new breed of discerning clients to cross the threshold of an RD boutique.
Having worn this watch (that’s my wrist in the picture below), I can attest that it is wonderfully detailed. The flange encircling the display cantilevers over the intricately formed dial, introducing a wonderful play with depths. Every facet of the dial, including the exposed snail-shaped cams, serves to heighten desirability, while the indications remain eminently legible. Measuring 40 mm in diameter, the watch should suit the majority of would-be wearers and the movement is an exemplar of Haute Horlogerie.
But ultimately, it is the biretrograde calendar that will inevitably seduce most onlookers. As each hand nears its endpoint, it coquettishly invites the owner to watch as, within the blink of an eye, it flicks back to the beginning and writes a new chapter. Interestingly, an inscription encircles the movement, stating “C’est une montre actuelle, inspirée mais pas soumise au passé, qui se projette dans un futur qui nous appartient.” Employing my schoolboy-French, this means, ‘this is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us’. Again, this sentiment leads me to reflect on my journey through life; my past and my future. If only we could relive some past moments while rapidly skipping over others. Quite simply, there’s something very appealing about this Biretrograde watch.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
- Reference: RDDBEX1179
- Case: 18-carat pink gold, diameter 40 mm, height 11.25 mm, water resistance 10ATM (100m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde day & date displays
- Movement: RD840 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 40 jewels, power reserve 60 hours, 240 components.
- Strap: premium calf leather strap, interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS. Pink gold triple folding buckle.
- Price on application
The post Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar appeared first on Escapement Magazine | Watch News, Watch Reviews, Watch Blog.
