Honouring history, built for tomorrow, the new Type XX Chronographe 2075 timepieces keep Breguet’s legacy airborne!
The year was 1952. While the world was in the midst of rapid post-war recovery and aviation was entering its golden age, Breguet was quietly working on something special. This is the year that marked the birth of Breguet’s very first instrument watch, a chronograph built with precision and reliability at its very core. This instrument watch consisted of two variants: the Type 20 for the French Air Force and the Type XX for Naval Aviation.
Soon after these releases, Breguet introduced civilian models of the Type XX with the same performance to the commercial market. Inevitably, these timepeices would go on to become icons in watchmaking, known for their practicality, stylish designs and their roots to aviation history.
Inspired by this part of the brand’s history, Breguet introduced a modern Type XX model into its current collections, with the 4th generation of the timepiece being unveiled in 2023. Excluding these two latest releases, Breguet currently offers five Type XX models in its collection, each with its own distinct design. However, these new additions mark a fresh chapter for the line, bringing in a bold new aesthetic as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations.
These two new Type XX Chronographe 2075 models draw inspiration from an early reference that played a key role in the collection’s history. This was a civilian model, presented in 1955, which, according to Breguet archives, “originally sported a satin-finish silver dial, which was later replaced by a black dial.” Staying true to its originality, Breguet is introducing the stunning new Type XX Chronograph 2075 models, featuring a black dial made from aluminium, and another, limited to 250 models, with a solid silver dial, as a reference to the very first 1955 Type XX reference 1780, which was unveiled with a satin silver dial.
Case Design
The Type XX Chronographe 2075 has a case diameter of 38.3mm, which is identical to the historic 1955 Type XX reference 1780 models, whilst having a thickness of just 13.22mm, making these timepieces very wearable. The proportions strike a great balance between vintage design and modern comfort, while the curved lugs allow the timepiece to sit naturally on the wrist.
The case has been crafted in Breguet’s latest material innovation: 18k Breguet Gold. This material was introduced this year, as part of the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations. Naturally, this is the perfect choice of material for these new Type XX timepeices, as not only does it tie in with the brand’s anniversary celebrations, but also offers the Type XX a completely new look (in a good way, I might add) to the brand’s current Type XX collection.
Inspired by the original 1955 Type XX reference 1780, these new Type XX Chronographe 2075 models also come with beautifully engraved numerals on the slim, bi-directional bezel. For the black dial model, the numerals are done in black, while for the silver-dialled version, they are done in blue.
What makes the case design truly stand out is the varying finishing techniques. The knurled bezel features a horizontal brushed finish that matches the side profile of the case seamlessly, while the area between the lugs has a vertical brushed finish. The top of the lugs, as well as the chronograph pushers and crown (with the beautiful signature B logo of Breguet), features a mirror-shine polished finish. All these elements come together to create a dynamic and beautifully executed case that feels both purposeful and elegant.
Dial Design
While the case design remains the same for both of these new Type XX Chronograph 2075 releases, the dials differ significantly. The black dial has a simpler and elegant look, while staying in theme with the iconic Type XX dial characteristics. In contrast, the white dial has a more traditional chronograph “aesthetic” with the tachymeter scale and balanced sub-dial layout.
While the black dial variant may follow the same design as the modern Type XX models, it features a first for the collection: the use of Duralumin. Breguet states, “In tribute to the genius of Louis Breguet, who pioneered the use of Duralumin (an alloy containing 95% aluminium) sheet metal for his aircraft, Breguet has chosen to equip its Type XX 2075 with a dial made
from this material. A discreet “Al” between 7 and 8 o’clock confirms the use of this metal.” For Breguet to obtain the black hue as close as possible to the dial colour of the historic 1955 Type XX reference 1780 model, the brand used anodisation, a process in which a thick layer of oxidation is created to protect against corrosion. The end result is a deep black anodising with a high level of mechanical resistance.
The silver variant of the Type XX Chronographe 2075 is presented with a vertically brushed finish, which, while offering a sophisticated aesthetic, also ties in nicely with the brushed finishes of the case. Like the black dial, there is a subtle “Ag925” marking between 7 and 8 o’clock, a reference to the silver used for the dial. As mentioned earlier, the silver dial brings a different aesthetic to the collection, one that leans more toward traditional chronograph design. From the tachymeter scale to the well-proportioned dual sub-dial layout and refined hour indices, it delivers a classic look with a touch of vintage charm. While it may appear busier than the black dial variant, the layout remains balanced and highly legible, maintaining a sense of order that feels unmistakably Breguet.
Movement
The beating heart of these two Type XX Chronograph 2075 editions is a variation of the high-performance 5Hz Calibre 728 movement, which was introduced by Breguet in 2023. Calibre 7279 is the movement inside the black dial model, while Calibre 7278 sits inside the silver dial variant. While these two new movements carry Calibre 728 flyback function, they are now for the first time manually wound. The main difference between the two movements is that Calibre 7279 features an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock, while Calibre 7278 features a 30-minute counter. Both movements come with a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.
Through the timepiece’s transparent caseback, the wearer is treated to an engraving that is entirely hand-crafted in Breguet’s workshops. Done in the ever beautiful 18k Breguet Gold material, the brand states that the engraving “depicts the Breguet 19 aircraft in full flight accompanied by the precise route taken in 1930, the European and North American landmasses’ frosted finishing contrasts against the smooth Atlantic Ocean.”
Initial Thoughts
The release of the new Type XX Chronographe 2075 timepieces shows us that even after 250 years, Breguet knows how to evolve while still staying deeply rooted to it’s history. The timepeices are more than just simple celebration timepieces, they are a reimagining of one of the brand’s most iconic tool watches. Each variant brings something unique to the table while still paying tribute to the original Type XX reference 1780. If I had to choose one? It wouldn’t be easy. The black dial stays true to the Type XX’s signature design language, but there’s something about the silver dial that really stands out. The combination of blue markings, Breguet Gold accents, and that brushed silver backdrop just works, creating a refined and visually appealing aesthetic.
From the balanced case proportions to the hand-engraved caseback and high-frequency manual-wound flyback movements, there’s an attention to detail that makes these watches feel genuinely special. At the end of the day, the civilian Type XX (and Type 20) models played a major role in keeping Breguet alive through the decades, carrying the brand’s legacy through changing times whilst staying true to its roots. A 250th anniversary wouldn’t be the same if that history had been interrupted. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075 timepieces isn’t just honouring the past, it’s soaring confidently into the future.
Specification: Type XX Chronographe 2075 (2075BH/99/398)
- Dimensions: 38mm X 13.22mm thick
- Case Material: 18k Breuget gold
- Dial: Duralumin dial (black anodised coating) with 18k gold hands and indices.
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Manual Wound Calibre 7279
- Movement Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
- Bracelet/Strap: Black calf leather strap with gold stitching. Ardillon 18K Breguet Gold buckle.
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 66,500
Availability: Available now through Breguet boutiques and authorised retailers or Breguet.com.au
Specification: Type XX Chronographe 2075 (2075BH/G9/398)
- Dimensions: 38mm X 13.22mm thick
- Case Material: 18k Breuget gold
- Dial: Hand-satinated and Zapon-coated silver dial with 18k gold hands and indices.
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 Bar)
- Movement: Manual Wound Calibre 7278
- Movement Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours operating at 5Hz (36,000 VpH)
- Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
- Bracelet/Strap: Blue calf leather strap with blue stitching. Ardillon 18K Breguet Gold buckle.
